Breaking the Ice: Catching Fish When Winter Locks the Water

There’s something quietly exciting about arriving at a frozen lake in mid-winter. The surface may be solid, but that doesn’t mean the fishing has to stop. Ice can work in your favour as it gives fish a sense of security and shelter, concentrates shoals, and, with a careful, methodical approach, it’s still possible to enjoy a great few hours fishing on the bank. The key is patience, subtlety, and knowing exactly how to approach the swim.

Ice Breaking Kit – Get It Right!

When fishing through ice, preparation is everything. A casual approach simply won’t cut it. I always use a proper ice breaker, typically in the 6–8lb range, with a short chain attached. The chain allows me to cut the ice back towards me in a controlled manner, rather than smashing random holes and creating unnecessary vibration that could spook the fish.

Distance is also important. Being able to throw the breaker 13–14.5 metres lets me reach spots where the fish feel safe, usually on a long pole line away from the bank and shallow edges. Thin rope is essential; it casts better, is easier to handle, and doesn’t absorb water.

Gloves are also non-negotiable. A heavy-duty waterproof pair keeps hands warm and dry and protects against rope friction. I often use a simple £3 pair from Screwfix; they’re reliable and prevent blisters from the thin rope.

Breaking the Ice Correctly

The goal isn’t to smash the water into a mess. Controlled, tidy cuts make a huge difference. I throw the breaker to the distance I intend to fish and use the chain to cut back to the edge. If the ice is exceptionally thick, I start closer in and gradually work my way out, carefully widening the channel as needed.

The width of the channel matters. A narrow channel preserves cover for the fish, which they rely on under ice, while still giving me room to operate my pole and elastic. Fish feel more secure under ice, and a tidy channel encourages them to feed rather than scatter.

Clearing Your Swim

Once the channel is cut, it’s vital to remove loose ice. I use a landing net for the pieces close to me and a pole with a cup for the sheets further out. Keeping the swim tidy reduces interference with bites and allows the fish to move freely in the area. It may seem like extra work, but a clean swim can be the difference between a few bites and a frustrating session.

Feeding Strategy in Freezing Conditions

Feeding under ice requires a light touch. I select a spot, usually on a long pole line as far from the bank as possible and tight to the ice edge and commit to it. Overfeeding is a common mistake in winter; fish are cautious, and a heavy feeding approach can shut a swim down completely.

Groundbait is my preferred fish-holding medium. It holds fish in the area without filling them up on feed they can eat immediately, like maggots or casters. I usually start with a small ball of 50/50 Mainline Match F1 Dark and 100% Ground Expander, with just a pinch of loose feed, typically pinkies, maggots, and a few casters. This is sufficient to get the swim active without overdoing it.

From there, I gauge how the session is progressing. Additional groundbait or loose feed can be introduced gradually, but restraint is critical. You can always put more bait in, but once it’s in the water, you can’t take it out.

Let the Peg Settle

Patience is crucial under ice. I always allow the peg to settle for at least 30 minutes after feeding. If the bite is exceptionally slow, I won’t hesitate to leave it for an hour or more. Fish need time to explore the baited area and get comfortable before they start feeding confidently.

This is also a good opportunity to stretch your legs, check your kit, or grab a coffee. Often, the swim comes alive while you’re away, and the first bite when you return can be very rewarding.

Using Noise to Attract Fish

Noise is a surprisingly effective tool in winter conditions. Loose feeding with a catapult adds both sound and movement to the swim, attracting silvers and keeping fish active. I regularly feed maggots and casters in this way, with casters being particularly effective because they make a louder splash and catch the attention of feeding fish.

It’s important not to overdo it — around 20–30 casters per feed is usually enough. This keeps fish moving without overfeeding and maintains a consistent, controlled stream of bait into the swim.

Pole Rig and Tackle for Cold Water

Winter bites under ice tend to be subtle, so rig choice is critical. I scale everything down slightly to match the delicate conditions.

I use a Skimmer Carbon with a round body and fine fibreglass bristle. The delicate, thin bristle is essential as bites are often shy, and subtle movement needs to be picked up clearly. Float weight depends on depth: for swims up to around 10’ in depth, I use 0.75–1g, lighter for shallower water, heavier for deeper swims. When in doubt, I always go on the lighter side, as it will generally get you more bites on those difficult days.

For shotting, I favour a 50cm reversed taper, which is made up of a bulk of shot (number 9 micro shot) in this rig, along with 3–4 size 13 Micro Cube trimming shots, followed by a strung taper of number 9 dropper shots with gaps increasing down to 6”. So, the actual rig is 50cm bulk, followed by 1” gap, then a 2”, 3”, 4”, 5” and finally a 6” gap to a loop, which I connect my hooklength with a loop to loop connection.

For hooklengths, 6” of 0.09mm N-Gauge Super Natural, tied to a size 16 Fine Wide Gape hook, all on new Guru prototype size 6 elastic. This combination registers bites naturally while giving minimal resistance to cautious fish.

Hookbait and Hook Choice

Casters are my first choice for silvers—they also help pick up bonus fish like chunky perch or odd skimmers. When bites are very slow, a simple single maggot or pinkie can work better, but I always like to keep a caster on standby for targeting better fish.

Hooks are just as important as bait. Fine Wide Gape hooks are light, natural, and razor-sharp. I use PTFE-coated hooks to maintain sharpness and ensure confident hookups. Standard hook size is 16, but I’ll go down to 18 or even 20 in very tough conditions. The ideal hook is light, sharp, and strong enough to land bonus fish without spooking the silvers.

Final Thoughts

Ice on the water doesn’t signal the end of fishing. With the right preparation, clean ice-breaking, minimal feeding, letting the peg settle, careful rig and hookbait choice, and patience, productive sessions are still very achievable. Respect the fish, respect the conditions, and winter can be one of the most rewarding times to be on the bank.